My friend Chef Ivan is a famous Odessa meat specialist. He knows how to choose it and can cook it even with his eyes closed. Ivan says that ayran is the ideal finish for a meat feast. The ingredients of ayran, besides yogurt, mineral water, and salt, depend on Ivan’s mood and what kind of fresh herbs he found on Privoz bazaar. Here are a couple more ideas for what to put in ayran: tarragon and freshly ground black pepper; basil and garlic; fresh coriander, garlic, and freshly ground black pepper. Just remember, everything should be very fresh, as it is customary in Odessa: from the garden straight to Privoz?